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Harley Performance Tech Tips, News and Information

Welcome to Harley Performance Tech Tips, News and Information. Providing riders and enthusiasts with performance tips and information for their Harley-Davidson motorcycles.


 Harley Davidson Performance : Harley Performance News Home : January 2005

January 3, 2005 08:33 - Chain Lube

Lubing your chain (for those that have chain drive Harley's) is one of the most neglected maintenance procedures yet one of the most important. For those with belt drives, take this opportunity to inspect your belt for proper tension, and read on... because you never know when a riding buddy with a chain drive will need your advice. Few people are fortunate enough to have their chain or belt break while close to home so a few minutes spent lubing your chain is cheap insurance.

First some personal advice regarding lubes. Step away from that can of WD-40! Use the right product for the job. You wouldn't wash your car with a household solvent, so don't use penetrating oil in place of chain lube. WD-40 is a water dispersing penetrating oil meant to repel water. Almost 60% of this solution is an aromatic corrosive solvent designed to penetrate with a suspended paraffin lubricant designed to remain upon evaporation. There are rumors that WD-40 will actually eat away at certain metals and rubber, but the fact remains that WD-40 is NOT a CHAIN LUBE.

1. Start by cleaning your chain with a mild degreaser. Something like Simple Green (diluted) is sufficient. A good time to do this is when you are washing your bike. Thoroughly dry the chain with an absorbent towel. Compressed air can be used but be careful not to blow grease all over your bike's finish. An alternative is to buy a can of compressed air used for computers. This is just strong enough to blow off any debris. Chain lube always applies better to a warm chain so a brief ride around the block may be in order.

2. Some people use gear oil on their chains, but if at all possible stick with an actual chain lube product. Use a clean paint brush and brush the lube onto your chain. This is easier if you can elevate the rear wheel so you can rotate the chain. Spray type chain lube may also be used (did I mention WD-40 is not a chain lube?). Wipe off any excess with a rag and allow the lube to fully soak in before riding.

3. Take your bike out for a low speed ride to get the lube worked in and also to allow any excess to fly off. If you did a good job of soaking up the excess with a rag then this should be minimal.

4. For those with o-ring chains you should always use a chain lube specified for this type. Many are compatible but check the label first. It is important to apply the lube to a warm chain when dealing with the o-ring style chains.

5. While some may think it excessive I always recommend lubing your chain every 500 miles. This will insure that your chain remains strong and lasts.

Don't forget to check your chain's tension while you are cleaning.

January 13, 2005 10:42 - Winter Storage

Harley Hibernation Made Easy
Those who continue to ride through the winter will still benefit from some of these tips to keep your ride in top shape. While many reading this are already in the grips of winter, it is never too late to prep your Harley (or other equipment).

Below is a check list that will help make sure your ride survives until spring.

1. Stabilize the fuel
Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate. Some believe that draining the tank and float bowl is all that is needed to prevent the gasoline from turning to sludge. In my opinion there is no way to completely drain every drop of fuel, especially from all the small passages and jets in the carburetor.

Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine. This will prevent the remaining fuel residue from oxidizing and turning to varnish. There are several brands of fuel
stabilizer
but be sure to purchase a reliable brand.

2. Change your oil
Now that your Harley is warmed up after running the stabilizer through the engine, change your oil. Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize during prolonged storage or inactivity. Changing your oil now removes all the sludge and dirt that would otherwise start to deteriorate. In addition, changing oil now guarantees fresh lubrication when it comes time to remove the bike from storage.

Don't go cheap on the oil like some sites encourage. Use a quality oil that you would normally drive with. I recommend synthetics which will survive much longer into next year's riding season, but the choice is up to you. Run the engine a few minutes to disburse the oil through the engine.

3. Prepare the Battery
Lead-acid batteries should be kept under a constant charge in order to prolong their life. Attach a Battery Tender or specialized charger that won't overcharge your battery. A trickle charger may be used but must not be run for more than a half-hour each day. This could be accomplished using an appliance timer. If your motorcycle will be stored where freezing temperatures are likely, remove the battery from the bike and place in a warm dry place. The battery should be kept charged regardless.

4. Clean and Lubricate
Dirt, sand, and road salts will begin to corrode and damage metal surfaces if left during storage. Give your bike a good cleaning before putting her to sleep for the winter. Lubricate the chain as discussed in last month's newsletter. That article should appear shortly on the Tech Tips page or contact me and I'll send it to you. Lubricate all moving parts such as cables and use a metal protectant spray on the underside of the frame and drivetrain. This will combat any rust on areas exposed from pitting or scratches. As I mentioned last month NEVER use WD-40 on your Harley, ever!

5. Check your Tires
Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If you have a compressor then deflate your tires first to expel any moisture, then inflate with clean compressed air. You should repeat this step before riding again in the spring.

If possible, elevate your Harley so both tires are not under load. This is especially important if the bike will be stored in freezing conditions. Make sure your bike is secure. Motorcycle lifts with bottle jacks have been known to fail when left under prolonged load.

6. Cover your Harley
Even when stored inside, your bike should be covered while stored. Use a cover that can breath and not a plastic tarp. Moisture should not be allowed to become trapped under the cover on your bike's metal surfaces. If your storage is in a barn or similar place, cover the exhaust's to prevent any unwanted creatures from making a winter den. Place plastic bags over the intake to keep moisture out.

That's basically all there is to storing your bike. There are a hundred more suggestions out there (filling the tires with nitrogen, etc.), but for the most part these steps outlined above will ensure your investment gets a safe winter's rest. Once stored, resist the temptation of periodically starting the engine, or at least until you are ready to drain out the stabilized fuel and start riding again. While your beauty is sleeping it is the perfect time to work on those maintenance projects you have been putting off, like changing the fork oil.

December 2004 «  » February 2005

 

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