February 10 - Harley Cam Selection

Upgrading your Harley with a new cam is often referred to as Stage 2 upgrade and is a step in the right direction to achieving greater performance.

If you have not already upgraded your bike to 'Stage 1' (Free-breathing air cleaner, exhaust, etc.), be sure to check out our previous article entitled Harley Stage 1 Upgrade before proceeding with a Stage 2 cam upgrade.

Selecting a cam can be a difficult decision given all of the information and conflicting opinions available. Often Harley riders choose a cam based on horsepower numbers, a huge mistake which can result in a decline in performance. Before selecting a cam it is important to consider riding style, bike type, and components that will provide the best combined performance.

As a general rule of thumb, heavy bikes requires a cam with more low-end torque. Big HP numbers are of little benefit for touring or 2-up riding on a heavy bike. Those with lighter bikes and typical street riding should opt for a cam that produce good low to midrange torque. Remember that while horsepower is good for bragging, torque is felt in the seat of your pants. It is not uncommon to smoke another rider off the line whose cams produce higher numbers on the high end.

Rule of thumb #2: Cams can be divided into 3 power range groups.

Low end: Cams with a duration of less than 235.

Mid range: Duration range of 235 to 250.

Top end: Duration of 260 or greater.

Cams in the upper mid to top end range with greater than .500" of lift require head work and higher compression. Therefore, I highly recommend consulting a qualified shop before making such a cam choice since this is not considered a "bolt-in" application.

A comprehensive list of cams for each model type shall be posted on the Harley-Performance site. Cam brands vary and the buyer should select carefully, since there are variations based on induction (carb of injection) and cam drive type (chain or gear). If you have the dealer install your new cams then you may be limited to Screamin' Eagle. Otherwise I recommend Andrews and Crane cams for both EVO and TC88 applications.

Ken's personal picks. The following cams produce healthy midrange torque and can be bolted in without any major modification.
EVO Big Twin - Andrews EV27 or Crane Fireball 310
Twin Cam 88 - Andrews TW37
Twin Cam 95 - Andrews TW44
Sportster - Andrews V2 (1986-90)
Sportster - Andrews N2 (1991-99)
Shovel - Crane 298 or H298

For a more detailed description of cams and specifications please be sure to look for the upcoming article posted at Harley-Performance.com

January 13 - Winter Storage

Harley Hibernation Made Easy
Those who continue to ride through the winter will still benefit from some of these tips to keep your ride in top shape. While many reading this are already in the grips of winter, it is never too late to prep your Harley (or other equipment).

Below is a check list that will help make sure your ride survives until spring.

1. Stabilize the fuel
Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate. Some believe that draining the tank and float bowl is all that is needed to prevent the gasoline from turning to sludge. In my opinion there is no way to completely drain every drop of fuel, especially from all the small passages and jets in the carburetor.

Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine. This will prevent the remaining fuel residue from oxidizing and turning to varnish. There are several brands of fuel
stabilizer but be sure to purchase a reliable brand.

2. Change your oil
Now that your Harley is warmed up after running the stabilizer through the engine, change your oil. Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize during prolonged storage or inactivity. Changing your oil now removes all the sludge and dirt that would otherwise start to deteriorate. In addition, changing oil now guarantees fresh lubrication when it comes time to remove the bike from storage.

Don't go cheap on the oil like some sites encourage. Use a quality oil that you would normally drive with. I recommend synthetics which will survive much longer into next year's riding season, but the choice is up to you. Run the engine a few minutes to disburse the oil through the engine.

3. Prepare the Battery
Lead-acid batteries should be kept under a constant charge in order to prolong their life. Attach a Battery Tender or specialized charger that won't overcharge your battery. A trickle charger may be used but must not be run for more than a half-hour each day. This could be accomplished using an appliance timer. If your motorcycle will be stored where freezing temperatures are likely, remove the battery from the bike and place in a warm dry place. The battery should be kept charged regardless.

4. Clean and Lubricate
Dirt, sand, and road salts will begin to corrode and damage metal surfaces if left during storage. Give your bike a good cleaning before putting her to sleep for the winter. Lubricate the chain as discussed in last month's newsletter. That article should appear shortly on the Tech Tips page or contact me and I'll send it to you. Lubricate all moving parts such as cables and use a metal protectant spray on the underside of the frame and drivetrain. This will combat any rust on areas exposed from pitting or scratches. As I mentioned last month NEVER use WD-40 on your Harley, ever!

5. Check your Tires
Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If you have a compressor then deflate your tires first to expel any moisture, then inflate with clean compressed air. You should repeat this step before riding again in the spring.

If possible, elevate your Harley so both tires are not under load. This is especially important if the bike will be stored in freezing conditions. Make sure your bike is secure. Motorcycle lifts with bottle jacks have been known to fail when left under prolonged load.

6. Cover your Harley
Even when stored inside, your bike should be covered while stored. Use a cover that can breath and not a plastic tarp. Moisture should not be allowed to become trapped under the cover on your bike's metal surfaces. If your storage is in a barn or similar place, cover the exhaust's to prevent any unwanted creatures from making a winter den. Place plastic bags over the intake to keep moisture out.

That's basically all there is to storing your bike. There are a hundred more suggestions out there (filling the tires with nitrogen, etc.), but for the most part these steps outlined above will ensure your investment gets a safe winter's rest. Once stored, resist the temptation of periodically starting the engine, or at least until you are ready to drain out the stabilized fuel and start riding again. While your beauty is sleeping it is the perfect time to work on those maintenance projects you have been putting off, like changing the fork oil.